Yesterday we headed out to Cliff Beach, at the base of Diamond Head Crater and learned to surf. The first trip out was great fun, and our excellent instructor, John, stood on a rock in the surf getting us prepared for the big waves so that we could learn to paddling into and get caught up in a wave. It was a ton of fun!
After a break on the beach I decided I wanted to try to stand up on the board - for the full surfing experience. Little did I know until I tried to paddle back out just how exhausting it was! No wonder all surfers have amazing bodies. I was so fustrated as it seemed I as paddling as hard as I could and getting nowhere. By the end of it I did manage to get standing (for a couple of seconds) before falling off the board and came back with two cuts on my foot, a cut & bruise on my wrist, and huge bruises on my hip bones, ribs and on my chest where my bikini top dug into me every time I slammed down on the board after a big wave.
In conclusion - I think surfing is the sport for me. If I magically become stronger and where a padded suit. Maybe I can try Long Beach next time where I would have to wear a wet suit to pad my bones.
Okay time to hobble up to my room and pack. I am renting a car and traveling the Island today.
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